A tour in Mongolia

by Beatrix Manico Gull

"A tour in Mongolia" by Beatrix Manico Gull is a travel narrative written in the early 20th century. It follows an adventurous traveler from Peking through Kalgan into Inner Mongolia, blending firsthand journeys by cart, pony, and caravan with portraits of Mongol life, religion, and landscape, set against a backdrop of Chinese, Russian, and Japanese political pressures. An analytical introduction and the author’s photographs frame an ethnographic, on-the-ground account of a remote region in flux. The opening of this account pairs a succinct political survey—explaining Mongolia’s recent break with China, Russian influence, Japanese-backed maneuvers, and the rollback of autonomy—with the author’s personal departure from Peking in search of “old order” ways. She detours to the Ming tombs (including a scuffle with a bullying gatekeeper), rides the railway to Kalgan, and observes its Mongol market, camel caravans, roadside theatre, and the ruins of the Great Wall, as well as a lively Cantonese feast. When rumors of frontier fighting persist, she joins a Finnish missionary’s small caravan and crosses the Han-o-pa Pass, sleeping in Chinese inns on heated k’angs fueled by argol. The narrative highlights ox-carts and camel trains, dust storms over the prairie, and her first yourt visit with the Mongol Dobdun, where she records tea customs, snuff-bottle etiquette, and the presence of lamas. It concludes this opening stretch with her reaching a remote mission at Ta-Bol and enduring a night of gales under canvas—an emblem of the hardship and allure of the journey ahead.