Terveeks' — Buddha!

by Sulo-Weikko Pekkola

"Terveeks'' — Buddha!" by Sulo-Weikko Pekkola is a travelogue written in the early 20th century. It follows a Finnish traveler moving from the Middle East into British India and across Southeast Asia toward Australia, blending shipboard episodes, rail journeys, and street-level sketches of colonial cities. Told in an anecdotal, often humorous and sometimes sharply opinionated voice, it focuses on everyday encounters, language barriers, and the social hierarchies of empire. The opening of the narrative finds the author abandoning an overland entry to India in favor of a British India Steam Navigation ship from Basra, sharing a cabin with Hindu officers, watching deck passengers cook amid monsoon swells, and arriving via Karachi to Bombay. First impressions emphasize how European parts of Indian port cities appear, contrasted with crowded stations, third-class train travel, improvised smoking customs, and a grim episode of suspected sabotage leading to a wreck. He comments on language gaps despite imperial English, offers blunt (often biased) notes on local habits like crouching by the tracks and the status of sacred animals, and describes a hawk taking a street chicken. Reaching Singapore, he depicts a cosmopolitan, Chinese-dominated port with fine roads, open drains, foul river, trolley-like buses, and visits to rubber estates and the botanic garden; he relies on a newspaper editor rather than a consul for access. Street vignettes include anti-English sentiment, getting lost, gold-teeth smiles, noisy lodgings with piano and violin, bath tubs as water boxes, a nearby mosque and guarded harem, and an episode with a neighbor’s wheezing accordion. The section closes with visa bureaucracy for Australia resolved by an English officer upstairs and the sight of a lively, music-led Chinese funeral procession.